As we slid into August, the days shortened, but the temperatures peaked. This month has been a mellow one, filled with quiet days and nights. Many shops, bars, and restaurants were closed as many locals gravitated to either the seaside or the mountains. Florence benefited from the summer holiday as well, experiencing less traffic. In these anecdotes, I relished my time with my beloved city. From a walk down a road, a pass through Piazza di San Giovanni, a hike up to Piazzale Michelangiolo, and a jaunt in the Giardino Bardini.
Via dei Servi — July 19, 2024
As I made my way down via del Proconsolo, the heat lingered between the tall buildings lining the street. When I arrived in Piazza del Duomo, I took my time to enjoy the breeze, which smelled of warm limestone.
People sat on covered terraces enjoying drinks in the shade of the cathedral. Once I turned the corner, the number of pedestrians decreased.
The mellow summer vibe was palpable as fewer people were meandering the area. Some shops were already closed for the holidays, while others had reduced hours. This part of Florence felt deserted compared to the bustling streets around the Duomo.
Upon arriving in Piazza Santissima Annunziata, I encircled it. I admired the features of the buildings and the small fountains. Groups of people gathered on the steps.
After walking past the bronze statue of Ferdinando I, the Duomo appeared like a mirage in the distance. A golden glow lit up Via dei Servi as I navigated the one-way street and reveled in the unhindered view of Santa Maria del Fiore.
Piazza di San Giovanni — July 29, 2024
After sunset, I went outside for s stroll. With no specific idea of where to go, I passed through Piazza della Signoria to arrive at Via Calzaiuoli.
Despite the cooler temperatures, the air remained sticky. Many milled past the closed shops and open gelaterie. A few stood outside with cups or cones of ice cream, melting quicker than they could eat them.
As I encountered more and more people, I turned down Via Dei Tosinghi to reach Via Roma. I walked in the street alongside the passing cars to arrive quicker.
Upon entering Piazza di San Giovanni, my gaze was drawn to the Battistero and then the Duomo. Their marble façades gleamed under the royal blue sky. I stood near a cement bench, to distance myself from the crowds, and gazed at the two masterpieces. When I noticed the open space before me, I snapped a photo.
Within a few seconds, some passersby returned. It is the typical ebb and flow of the crowds in Florence. Sometimes, it looks like they are omnipresent, but at times they are absent.
With every passing moment, the air lightened up as the skies darkened. On my way home, I took a detour to the Ponte Vecchio where I enjoyed a slight breeze from the east.
Viale Poggi — August 3, 2024
The chirping of crickets accompanied me up Viale Poggi. A gentle wind passed along the shady one-way road, that leads up to Piazzale Michelangiolo. I felt relaxed with the verdant hillside on my right and the centro storico on my left. I slowed down when the Duomo was framed by locust trees.
When I arrived above the Fontana delle Rampe del Poggi, the Duomo glowed below the white, billowy clouds. I couldn’t help but smile at the milky blue skies, offering a respite from the sun’s constant presence these past few days.
I relaxed my shoulders and breathed in the day’s mellow. A few sightseers marched up the incline to Piazzale Michelangiolo without looking behind them. A group of holiday bikers and a van carrying tourists peering out the open windows passed one after the other.
The noon bells added a vibrant energy to the sleepy summer day. Afterwards, I returned to the Giardino delle Rose, and followed the path toward the exit. I hopped onto the grass to smell the roses that had resisted the heat, enjoying their delicate perfume.
Giardino Bardini — August 18, 2024
By the time I reached Ponte alle Grazie, the sun was casting a diffused light on the Arno up to the Ponte Vecchio. Veils of white clouds glowed in the sky. Above the buildings along Via de’ Bardi, Giardino Bardini appeared parched with its hay-colored grass.
I hadn’t visited the garden in weeks because of the endless sunny days with no break. The gardens opened at 10 a.m., right as the temperatures hovered around 30 degrees, with an additional 5-10 more degrees coming by mid-afternoon.
A symphony of cicadas welcomed me into the gardens. Cheering and conversing together.
As I walked up the pathway, I sniffed the air, but only smelled the dry grass and pebbles. The trees were glorious while the flowers had petals with burnt edges.
When I arrived under the pergola, I paused to enjoy the shady walkway below the leafy glicine (wisteria) vines. At the top, I was pleased to see the Duomo just beyond the fruit tree orchard. I circled the olive grove as the heat was stifling and walked to the Villa. I tried sitting on the wooden benches, but there was no wind.
I considered returning to the exit, but wanted to bask in the garden’s relaxing energy. Behind the Villa, I sat down at a bench under two large trees surrounded by shrubs.
My body relaxed once a cool breeze swept by. I got comfortable and pulled out a book to read. A blackbird rustled in the dry leaves below the bushes, behind me, keeping me company.
With more people tricking in, I decided to leave. I took the winding path, where a navetta (shuttle) transported visitors from the entrance to the villa and back. When I left, the driver was on a lunch break, so I wasn’t able to take advantage of the new service.
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